Estimated Cost: $$$$
Total: 9 hours
This custom table is designed to accommodate a medium-sized Big Green Egg® to highlight your grill and give you extra space.
It features a shallow, built-in shelf to store grilling utensils, plates, etc. The legs are thin planks laid up to maximize their strength while remaining sleek.
You'll start with the construction of the frame, then move on to assembling the shelf and brace supports. Next, you will lay out surface planks and cut out the circle to fit the Big Green Egg®. After some light finishing, you'll be ready to grill in style all summer long.
Make sure to take proper safety precautions including always wearing gloves, goggles and a dust mask when you're cutting or sanding.
Note: Big Green Egg® is a registered trademark of Big Green Egg, Inc.
Cross-cut four 1x4s to a length of 32". These will create parts (A). Then, crosscut two 1x4s to a length of 21 ¾" for parts (B).
Take the two (B)s and rip them to a width of 1 ¼". You will be able to create two 1 ¼" wide pieces from a single 1x4. This will create four part (B)s.
To mark on part (A) where to attach part (B), measure ⅞" from the top and 2" from the right edge. This is where the top right corner of part (B) will be placed. Use the corner marks to draw a rectangle.
Make a mark 14 ⅛" from the top and 2" from the right edge. This is where the top right corner of another part (B) will be positioned. Draw a rectangle here as well.
Flip (A) over and inscribe the same 2 rectangles on the opposite side in a mirrored fashion. Having these marks on the other side of the board will indicate where to pin and screw (B) to (A).
Place a piece of ⁵⁄₄ board on your work surface to support part (B), and prop (A) vertically. Use clamps to secure (A) to the top of the scrap piece and to the table.
Glue edge of (B) and pin in place using a nail gun and two 18-gauge nails.
Next, drill a pilot hole in the center of the rectangle you drew. Use one 2" screw each to secure the two part (B)s to part (A).
Repeat the rectangle guides on the other part (A). Note: the dimensions are the same, just mirrored from left to right.
Glue, pin with nail gun, drill a pilot hole, and secure (B) with one 2" screw in the center of the rectangle.
Flip assembly over to allow the other (A) to be propped vertically. Attach the 2 (B) parts to this leg in the same way they were attached to first (A). This completes the Left Leg Assembly.
Mark on a fresh part (A) where to attach the other pieces using the Dimension Diagram. ⅞" from the top and ⅜" from the left edge will be where the top left corner of part (B) will be placed.
Make a mark 14 ⅛" from the top and 2" from the left edge. This is where the top left corner of another part (B) will be positioned.
Once you mirrored the 2 rectangles so they are on both sides of (A), transfer these to another (A) so you have eight total rectangle guides for placing and attaching (B).
Apply glue to edges of (B), and attach one at a time to (A) in the manner previously described (pin with 2 nails, drill pilot hole, and attach with one screw).
It may be easier to place the assembly on the floor to insert the top (B).
You now have both left and right leg assemblies.
For the front and back leg pieces, you’ll make four more part (A)s. Cross-cut 1x4s to 32" in length.
Cross-cut four 1x4s to a length of 16 ⅜". This will create part (C). For (D)s, crosscut two 1x4s to a length of 52 ½", and rip them to 1 ½" for four total boards.
Cross-cut a 1x4 to a length of 11 ¾" to create part (E). You’ll need four of these. Then cross-cut a 1x4 to a length of ⅞" to create part (F). You’ll need four of these.
To dry-fit all pieces, place part (A) flat on a work surface. Lay part (C) on top of part (A), keeping the bottom edges flush.
Next, lay part (D) on top of part (A), followed by part (E), another part (D), and part (F) at the top. Before fastening (C), ensure it is flush with (A). If not, adjust (C) so it fits.
Use wood glue and 1" nails in a nail gun to pin in place, beginning with part (F). Glue and nails are enough to fasten this section.
Repeat steps 21 - 23 for the other leg assembly.
This completes the Front and Rear Leg Assemblies.
Take the front leg components and lay them flat on the work surface. Make sure part (A) is facing down. Take the Left Leg Assembly and place it on top of the Front Leg Assembly.
Apply glue to the assemblies, pin in place with the nail gun using 1 ½" nails, then drill pilot holes and attach with 2" screws.
Repeat this process on the right side using the Right Leg Assembly.
Next, flip the assembly and do the same steps on the other side and place it on top of the other leg assembly.
Flip assembly 90° and place it on a level surface.
Cross-cut a 2x4 to a length of 49 ½". This will create part (G). Cross-cut two 2x4s to a length of 9 ⅞" to create 2 part (H)s.
Use 1x4 stock to cut part (I) and 2 (J)s. (J)s' edges are mitered at 45°.
Now, center parts (H) to bisect (G) as shown.
Use a metal plate tie to connect the three pieces. Place it so most of the holes fall on solid wood and not at joints. Use #8 1¼" screws to secure plate to wood.
Take the cross piece assembly and align it on the table frame so it is flush with (D). Use a clamp to hold the (H) edges in place.
Attach (G) edges with two 2 ½" screws.
After (G) is secure, attach (H)s. This completes the Lower Bracing.
Cross-cut a piece of 1x4 to a length of 23 ¼", and rip it to a width of 1 ½" to create part (I).
On the upper part (D) that is on the back side, make a mark 23 ⅛" from the left edge. This is where the left edge of part (I) will be positioned.
Glue the edges, pin with 1" nails, drill a pilot hole, and attach part (I) to part (D) with one 2" screw. Repeat on the other side of the assembly.
Position part (J) in the corner between parts (D) and (B). Apply glue, pin with 1" nails, drill a pilot hole, and secure with a 1 ¼" screw at each intersection.
Repeat with the other part (J).
Cross-cut a ⁵⁄₄x6 to a length of 23 ¼" to make part (K). Then cross-cut two ⁵⁄₄x6 boards to a length of 25 ½", and rip them to a width of 3 ¾" for two part (L)s.
Make two more (J)s that are 15" long and mitered at 45˚.
Make a notch in one corner of each that is 2 ¾" by ¾". This will create two part (L)s.
Cut three ⁵⁄₄x6s to a length of 25 ½" - this will create parts (M). Cut a ⁵⁄₄x6 to a length of 21 ¾" to make part (N).
Create the shelf assembly on its own, built upside down. Stand parts (K) and (N) on edge and place them about 23 ¾" apart, and dry-fit parts (L) and (M) on top. The two parts (L) should be at the edges.
Glue, nail in place, drill pilot holes, and attach with 1 ½" screws.
Flip the shelf assembly and wipe any excess glue from the inside of the shelf. Then slide it up into place in the leg assembly. The top edges should be flush with the top edges of parts (B) and (I).
Drill pilot holes and attach with 1 ¼" screws.
Position part (J) in the corner between parts (D) and (K). Drill pilot holes and attach using 1 ¼" screws. Repeat with the other part (J).
Cross-cut a ⁵⁄₄x6 to a length of 26 ¼" to create part (P). You’ll need seven of these in total.
To make part (O), cross-cut four ⁵⁄₄x6s to a length of 26 ¼". Using a jig saw, make a notch in one corner of each board that is 3 ½" by 2 ¼".
Finally, cross-cut two ⁵⁄₄x6s to a length of 26 ¼". Make a notch in two corners that are 2 ¼" by 3 ½". This will create part (Q).
We’ll start with the back left corner of the lower decking. Place part (O) on top of the bracing. The notch should fit around the leg assembly. Dry-fit all planks before attaching.
Pin in place, beginning at corners, with 1 ¼" nails to prevent shifting. Nailing is sufficient for this shelf, but if you desire, you can pre-drill and screw in 2" hardware as well.
For the Right Half, start at the right edge of the table with part (Q). Either nail or drill pilot holes and secure with 1 ¼" screws into the bracing. This completes the Lower Planks.
Cross-cut parts (O), (P), and (Q), for a total of 10 parts.
Starting with the left edge, place part (Q) and four (P)s on the top of the bracing. Dry-fit all planks before attaching.
Use a nail every few inches to pin down the planks, beginning with the corners (Q) and (P). Mark where screws will go, and drill pilot holes before securing planks to the bracing using 1 ¼" screws.
The final step is to cut out a circle in the upper decking. Make a mark 13 ¾" from the left edge and 13 ⅛" from the back edge. This will be the center of your circle.
Use a compass* to draw the 18" diameter circle.
With a jig saw, cut out the circle.
Ease any sharp edges with a medium grit sanding block. Apply preferred finish to the wood.
First, place the concrete paver on the lower decking under the circle you cut out.
With the help of a friend or two, lift the Big Green Egg® over the cutout and carefully lower onto the paver.