Estimated Cost: $$$$
Total: 5 hours
This bird feeder should attract many different birds to your yard. With a platform for those birds that like to move around on a flat surface while they pick at feed as well as a dowel for those who prefer a more natural "perch," this project will please both people and fowl for years.
The roof is removable for easy filling and the sub-base, with screen and drainage holes, will keep the seed from soaking up moisture, which will keep your backyard friends happier and healthier.
*Note: Drill 1/8" pilot holes for all screws
Cut pieces A through E to the dimensions noted on the cut list. To make part D, you will have to cut 2 pieces of 1 x 8 at 11 ½" long and edge glue and clamp them together. Once the glue has set, trim to size on your table saw.
Mark two lines on the base (A) at 2 ¾" and 4 ¾" along the narrow edge and square them down along the length. Drill a series of ten ½" diameter holes along each line, spaced about 1" in from the ends and 1" apart (no need to be exact as long as they are all drilled on your two square lines).
Cut a piece of metal screen to 5" x 10" and place it over the holes you drilled in the base (A). Attach it with 3/8" galvanized staples.
With bottom (D) face down on your assembly table, measure 4" in from the long point of the beveled edge and square a line. Place the edge of the base (A) on that line, keeping ends flush with (D), and attach with glue and screws. Repeat the process with bottom (C), measuring 1 ½" from the beveled edge and placing the other end of (A) on that line.
Place bottom (E) between (D) and (C), keeping ends flush and an approximate ¾" gap between all beveled edges. Make sure the gaps line up with the drainage holes in base (A). Tack (E) to (A) with 1 ¼" brads from the top side, then flip over and drive screws from underneath (no glue on this step).
Tack ends (B) in place with glue and 1 ¼" brads along the edges of your base/bottom assembly, keeping ends flush with part (D) and extending 2 ¾" beyond part (C). Carefully drill pilot holes and drive screws to permanently attach.
Cut remaining pieces, noting bevel and angle details on hopper ends (F) and roof components (G, H). To cut the grooves in hopper ends (F), set your table saw blade height at ¼" and set the fence at ½". Run all 4 grooves on both hopper ends, then bump the fence very slightly to about 9/16" and run them again, resulting in grooves about 3/16" wide. Line up center of hopper ends (F) with the peak of bottom (E) on both sides, keeping bottom edge of hopper (F) flush with bottom edge of ends (B). Attach with glue and screws.
Attach cross piece (I) between the peaks of hopper ends (F), with glue and 1 ¼" brads, keeping edges flush.
Cut acrylic sheets to size. If you can’t have them cut to size, cut them yourself by running a sharp utility knife along a straightedge several times (10 or more) and snapping them along that line. For smaller cutoffs or to clean up a cut edge, you may need to break off pieces with a pair of pliers. Insert into grooves in hopper ends (F).
Attach roof tops (H) to roof ends (G) with glue and screws.
Drill two 5/16" holes in end pieces (B), centered along the width and 1 ¼" in from the end overhanging part (C). Put a small bit of glue in both holes, insert dowel and attach with ¾" brads.
Attach spacers (K) to mounting base (J) with glue and 1¼" brads. If you will be attaching this to a wooden post, screw the mounting base to the post first, then attach mounting base to the underside of base (A), with 2" screws, making sure that the spacers do not block drainage holes. Another method is to attach mounting base to bottom of base (A), then attach a pipe flange to the underside of the mounting base and screw the flange onto the top of a threaded pipe driven into the ground. Either way, your feeder is ready to sand, finish, fill and enjoy!