Estimated Cost: $$$$
Total: 3 – 6 hours
This easy-to-build stand can perform many duties around your yard. With a plastic or terra cotta plant saucer placed on top, it can be used as a bird bath or even a Zen sand garden. While tall plants such as ferns or small palm trees would be too top-heavy for this stand, cascading plants such as geraniums, spider plants or certain types of ivies are perfectly suited for it.
Cut all parts to length first, according to dimensions on cut list. Then cut 30° bevels on both sides of one end of each foot (A) and bowl support (D) and bevel-rip each center upright (B) along both sides of one edge. To make these bevel cuts, tilt your table saw’s blade to 30° and position the fence so the bevels meet in the middle of the stock. To make the spline slots in the center uprights (B), flip the uprights so the bevel point is on the table and one face is tight against the fence. Make sure the blade will cut at least ¼" to accommodate the splines (E). Once all bevel cuts are made, rip parts A, B and D to 3" wide and parts C to 1 ½" square.
Dry assemble the center uprights (B) and splines (E) to make sure everything fits flush and tight, then disassemble and apply glue to slots. Place one spline in one bevel of each upright, then bring the parts together starting at the bottom and pushing the joint together all the way up. Clamp the assembly together until dry – strap clamps work best for this step, but you can rig standard grip clamps to perform the same function.
Use your 1 ½" and ¾" forstner or spade bits to cut the concaves in the feet (A) and bowl supports (D) as shown in detail drawings. Clamp scrap pieces of lumber to the edges of parts where drilling, as the center points of some of these holes fall on the edges of the pieces. For the bottom concave of the feet (A) draw a straight line from the top of the ¾" hole to the beveled edge and cut with a jig saw. For the bowl support (D) profile, measure whatever bowl you choose and match the profile as closely as possible by drilling holes, cutting straight lines and sanding where necessary – using the same principles and steps as above. On the underside of the feet (A), mark 1 ½" back from the bevel point and drill a ¾" countersink about ½" deep, then clamp to center upright assembly and drill a ¼" pilot hole through the center of your countersink and into the center uprights (B).
Attach center upright assembly to the feet (A) with glue, lag bolts and washers.
Clamp thin uprights (C) in place, with a 2 ½" space between them and the center uprights, and repeat drilling procedure and attach with glue, lag bolts and washers.
Clamp bowl supports (D) in place, lining up their bevel points with the bevel points of the center upright assembly. Drill 1/8" pilot holes through the top of bowl supports and into the center of thin uprights. Remove clamps, apply glue to the tops of the thin uprights and attach with 3" deck screws.
Break all edges and sand all surfaces smooth and apply weatherproofing finish of your choice. Place bowl in supports (you may want to secure it with some dabs of silicone adhesive along bowl supports) and you can now find a myriad of uses for your new stand!