Estimated Cost: $$$$
Total: 10 hours
Building a Chicken Coop is an ambitious project, but it's also incredibly rewarding. This coop is a deluxe home for chickens with a footprint that's perfect for small or urban backyards.
Its architecture is modern, elemental and includes many features that keep chickens happy. The front opening offers ample pecking and walking room. The enclosed area provides shelter for roosting and laying.
The ramp step spacing is designed to prevent even small breed chickens from sliding. There is a slide-out tray for easy chicken droppings cleanup. Additional hooks can be mounted inside to hang food and water or outside to store brooms and scoops. The roof is hinged for easy access to lay fresh hay or check on eggs. Its overlapped design protects chickens from the rain.
Chicken Coop (+Hack)
Begin by placing a Part (A) in between two Parts (B). It measures 55 ½" from the 90° angle edge of Part (B). Secure (A) to (B) with two 2 ½" screws per joint.
Next, orient a Part (C) so that its flat side is down and the tallest point is facing the angled parts of (B). Attach it at the intersection of (A) and (B), toe-screwing with a 1 ⅝" screw. Repeat on the other side.
Add braces − Parts (D) − to solidify Part (C). Secure with 2 ½" screws at an angle at both ends of (D).
Form a 90° rectangle with two Parts (E) and three Parts (F). There is a 6" gap between the bottom Part (F) and the middle one. Use two 2 ½" screws per joint.
Place this assembly in between Parts (B) at the 90° edge. Secure to Part (B) using 2 ½" screws.
Add Part (G) on top of Part (B) that is flush with the front of the assembly you just installed. Attach with 2 ½" screws, avoiding any existing screws. Repeat on the other side.
Add Parts (H) at the four corners using two 1 ⅝" screws per joint.
Top off Parts (C) and (G) with Part (I) so that their edges are flush. Use 2 ½" screws to secure this end and the other end.
Add Parts (J) so they are 27" from Parts (G) and toe-screw into place.
Secure the top of Part (I) to Part (J) with 2 ½" screws.
Add two horizontal supports, Parts (K), in between Parts (I). Space them 14" from either end. Use two 2 ½" screws per joint.
To build the door, assemble Parts (L) - (O) as shown. Ensure the 90° angles are square and that all edges are flush. Parts (L) and (O) are inside of Parts (M) and (N). Secure two 3" hinges to Part (M), about 5" from its edges.
Attach a handle to the short side of the door, Part (N). It is placed 4 ½" above the middle Part (L).
Secure the hinged door frame to the frame with the provided hardware. Use a ⅛" spacer at the bottom of the door to maintain a gap all around the door.
Test that the door opens and closes smoothly before attaching all of the hinge screws.
Add a barrel lock at the intersection of Part (L) and (G) as shown.
Test that the lock functions easily.
Add a Part (P) to the angled edge of Parts (B) using a 2 ½" screw at an angle. Repeat on opposite side.
Add another Part (A) with its wide face down and attach Parts (B) to it on both ends using 2 ½" screws.
Place Part (R) directly behind Part (C) oriented so its angled face is toward you, and secure with four 2 ½" screws, working your way up.
Finish attaching Part (R) on one side and then repeat on the other.
Now you can place a Part (S) on top of Parts (P) and, using a level on top of (S), mark where it is parallel with the ground onto Part (R).
Secure (S) into place using 2 ½" screws at an angle. Repeat on the other side.
At the other end of (S), add Part (T) so its angled face is toward you. Note: Part (T) should be about ¼" shy of Part (S), creating a small ledge that will help hold up the back wall when securing in a later step.
Place a Part (U) on top of (R) and (T) so it is oriented as shown. Secure with a 2 ½" screw at each joint. Repeat on the other side.
Add a second Part (S) 2 ½" above the existing one. Attach with a 2 ½" screw at an angle.
Secure the other end of Part (S). Repeat steps 26 - 27 on the other side.
Now, place two Parts (Q) 3" from Parts (P). Secure with 2 ½" screws at an angle.
Place a Part (A) on top of these Parts (Q) and secure with two 2 ½" screws per joint.
Assemble Parts (K), (V), and (W) on a work surface and create a rectangle as shown. Part (V) should be 2 ½" up from the edges of Parts (W). Use two 2 ½" screws per joint.
Drop this assembly into place between Parts (T) and secure with a series of 2 ½" screws.
Assemble two Parts (X) and two Parts (V) on a work surface to create a rectangle, ensuring 90° angles, and secure with 2 ½" screws. Then add two more Parts (V) spaced inside the rectangle as shown.
Put this assembly into place as shown and secure with a series of 2 ½" screws to Parts (R).
Add Part (K) so it is flush with the lower Parts (S) and attach.
Fill in the top frame with two more Parts (K) as shown. The farthest one is 15 ¾" away from the back Part (V). Then add another Part (V) on top of Part (A) flush with Parts (T) and (W). It will provide a guide for the pull-out tray.
Now, place plywood Part (Y) on top of the frame as shown.
Secure with 1 ⅝" screws, taking care to not interfere with existing screws.
Secure the back wall − Part (Z) − as shown using clamps as needed. Use 1 ⅝" screws.
Place Parts (AA) and (BB) as shown. Divide the back wall into thirds and evenly space two pairs of Parts (BB). Insert two Parts (AA) between the slots created by Parts (BB).
Secure Parts (BB) to the back wall with 1 ⅝" screws.
Secure Parts (AA) if desired, or leave loose for the flexibility to make a larger nesting box in the future.
Lay Part (CC) on the left side and (DD) on the right side of the coop and secure both side walls. Use 1 ⅝" screws. Flip the Coop on its side to make securing easier.
Next, build a rectangle out of Parts (EE) and (FF), with (GG) plywood as the base. Secure with 1 ⅝" screws, being careful to not expose the screw when going into the thin plywood.
Take a 14" wide roll of roof flashing material and cut three pieces to fit within the tray. Use metal cutting snips and cut along the marker line.
Adhere each piece of flashing with construction cement.
Lay in each piece carefully, with the first two at either end and the third one in the middle.
Apply pressure to entire tray surface and let dry the specified amount of time.
Once the adhesive is dry, place the tray into the right side and then put Part (HH) onto the front of the tray so it continues the lines from the side wall above. Use four 1 ⅝" screws.
Attach a handle centered to the front of the tray using the hardware provided.
Then, clamp Part (II) into place as the front wall and secure with 1 ⅝" screws.
For the roosting bar, position Part (JJ) into place using the layout dimensions on the diagrams page and mark its placement with a pencil.
Hold and secure from the outside of the two side walls with two 2 ½" screws.
Place Part (K) into place between Parts (U) and directly behind Part (R). Use two 2 ½" screws at an angle at either end.
To make the rotating roof frame, make a rectangle from two Parts (X) and two Parts (KK). Place another Part (X) in the middle.
Place two 4" hinges on an outside (X) that is about 4" in from the edges. Use the hardware provided with the hinges.
Set the frame into place and, using clamps, secure the other end of the hinge to Part (K).
Ensure the frame opens and closes smoothly. It should overhang the back wall so it can be lifted easily.
Next, drill a ¼" hole 2 ¾" in from either end into the middle Part (X).
Insert a ¼" carriage bolt, washer, and nut on both ends.
Place Part (LL) up to this Part (X) and pencil mark where the hole should be drilled so it can fit between the two carriage bolts. It should be about ½" from the left side to allow for full motion.
Drill through the mark you made at either end of Part (LL) using a ¼" drill bit.
Slide one end of Part (LL) onto the right carriage bolt.
Then slide on the left side.
Add an additional washer and nut on the right side and tighten.
Leave the left side open so that Part (LL) can be pulled off and used as a roof prop.
It should hit the back wall as shown.
Cut the PVC roofing panels to size, ensuring the back overhangs about 2". Secure the portion below the roof hinges first, using 1 ¼" screws. Use gray hardware on the white roof if desired.
Work your way down the material, and stick to a consistent pattern of screws for a neat look.
Next, add a Part (K) to the front of the roof so it meets the bottom corner of Parts (U). Use two 2 ½" screws at a diagonal per joint.
Lay the top strip of roof material so it overlaps the lower section by about 1" and ensure it overhangs the frame by at least ¼". Secure in the same manner as the previous portion.
The overlap is designed so that water will run continuously from the top portion to the bottom portion.
When opening the roof, the roof panel rotates up to allow for movement without losing the overlap.
Construct the ramp by attaching Parts (MM) to two Parts (NN) so Parts (MM) are flush and square with the edges of (NN). Attach the top and bottom rung first using 1 ¼" wood screws, and then evenly fill in the remaining parts.
Flip the ramp over and add final Part (OO) to one end. This will serve as a catch for the ramp to stay in place. Use 2 ½" screws.
Drop in the completed ramp into the opening on the front wall.
To protect the chickens, lay out and attach hardware cloth to the frame using ½" staples and a staple gun.
Cut the hardware cloth to size with wire snips as you work your way around the coop.
Protect the door separately so it can be opened and closed. Secure the open portion below the ramp as well.
Complete protecting the enclosure with hardware cloth as shown.
Next, flip the coop on its side and attach angled flashing to encase all of the bottom edges.
Finally, ease any sharp edges using a radial sander or sanding block with medium grit. Apply preferred finish to the wood.