Estimated Cost: $$$$
Total: 5 Hours
This dining table project has been designed with longevity in mind. Its sleek and sturdy form acts as a complement to any backyard space and instantly adds the possibility of enjoying meals outside.
The table features a strong base and a simple surface, secured to a support underneath. It comfortably sits three adults per side.
Using 2x6s layups for the legs, 5⁄4 x 6s for structure, and 1x4s for cladding, this project is simple to assemble.
Once the legs are completed, the support structure is secured to create the table's base. After the top slats are secured and a light sanding plus waterproof finish is applied, the table is ready for some serious action.
Dining Table Plan
Build an add-on everyone will enjoy.
Begin by stacking four Parts (A) with their end-grain curves opposite of each other.
Unfold this stack and begin applying glue to three of the faces. Use a curvy line of wood glue, then smooth with a scrap piece of wood.
Ensuring all edges are flush with each other, clamp one end of the stack slowly.
Use two additional clamps and tighten to form a tight grip on the layup. Allow to dry for the specified amount of time. Repeat Steps 1 - 4 until you have four total leg assemblies.
Place one Part (B) and two Parts (C) to form a C shape on a layout table. Put two Parts (C) equidistant in the middle.
Attach the end pieces with 2 ½" screws, ensuring the joints are square.
Place the two other Parts (C) equidistant from the end pieces and each other.
Secure two 2 ½" screws on either end, using a square to ensure 90-degree joints.
Place two Parts (D) (cladding) underneath the support frame to raise it off the table, and then set a leg assembly on one corner of the frame so that it protrudes 1" as shown.
Mark roughly in the middle of the frame's 2x4 to ensure the screw will not interfere with two screws on the frame joint.
Pre-drill with appropriate drill bit and follow with a ½" Forstner bit for countersinking the lag screw head. Be sure to drill the Forstner bit centered so that the lag screw head will be just shy of flush when inserted. Drill two horizontal holes.
Attach with two lag screws per joint. Repeat Steps 9 - 12 on all corners until the four legs are attached.
Place Part (G) against and adjacent to the support frame and attach with two 2" screws.
Add two more 2" screws vertically through the support frame to secure the other end of Part (G). Repeat on the other end.
Attach Part (F) to the edges of Parts (G) with two vertically placed 1 ⅝" screws. Secure the remaining legs in the same fashion. Flip over table so that it is right-side up, careful to not use the legs as a hinge-point to flip.
If you prefer to attach the cladding from the top (screwing into the support frame's 2x4 Parts (C)), Section 2 is complete. However, if you'd prefer hidden fasteners, follow Steps 17-21 to attach from underneath.
Begin by placing Parts (H) on the table with the cladding pieces laid out with ¼" spacing. Mark screw holes based on the placement of the cladding, as Parts (H) will be attached underneath and be secured to the cladding.
Take the Part (H) that has the marks and transfer to three other Parts (H).
Flip Parts (H) 90 degrees and mark screw holes for attachment of Parts (H) into the support frame so that the hole marks do not interfere with the cladding marks.
Secure Parts (H) to the four inside 2x4 supports using 2 ½" screws.
Secure Parts (E) on the outsides of the table using two 2" screws per joint, ensuring their outside edges are flush.
Then, evenly space Parts (D) in between. Use clamps if needed.
Continue attaching until all Parts (D) are secured.
Ease any sharp edges using a radial sander or sanding block with medium grit. Apply preferred finish to the wood.