This classic double settee plan features contoured seats and back splats, inviting you to settle in for a long and comfortable sit. The handy center table is perfect for a fruit bowl and drinks to help you enjoy a warm summer evening.
To build this plan you'll have to be comfortable with laying out curves – both symmetrical and irregular – as well as getting different contours and angles to match with each other. But fear not, as all this project takes is a little patience and careful cutting and you'll soon have a piece of outdoor furniture you'll be proud of for years.
Cut all parts to size, referring to detail illustrations for laying out curved, tapered and otherwise shaped pieces. When cutting rear legs (A) and center supports (B), lay out and cut one rear leg and use that as a pattern to lay out the other rear leg and the seat curve portion of the center support.
Measure and mark the center points of the front rail (D), rear cross member (E) and seat back support (F) after they have been cut and shaped to size.
Attach front rail (D) to rear legs (A), keeping tops and outside edges flush. Attach with 3” screws through the face of the front rail.
On a flat and level work surface, attach the front rail/rear leg assembly to the front legs (C). Make sure the bottoms of the rear legs sit flat on the work surface and use a framing square to position the front leg properly, keeping the face of the front rail ¼” back from the front edge of the front legs(C). Clamp in place and attach with 3” screws through the face of the front leg and into the edge of the front rail.
Measure 7 5/8” on either side of your center marks on the front rail (D) and rear cross member (E). Attach center supports (B) to the front rail with 3” screws, keeping the inner edge of center support on those lines 7 5/8” off center. Place rear cross member (E) on top of the rear legs, keeping outside edges flush and lining up the bottom edge of the cross member with the point at which you began the curved line on the back of the rear legs (A). See detail illustration and exploded view for proper placement. Attach center supports (B) to the underside of rear cross member with 3” screws, again keeping the inner edge of center support on the 7 5/8” line on rear cross member.
Attach armrests (K) to top of front legs (C), using 3” screws. Overhang the inside edge (square edge) of the armrest ½” over the inside face of front leg, and keep 2 ¾” of the armrest overhanging the front edge of the front leg.
Cut two temporary braces to 19 ¾” long and clamp it to the rear leg as seen in photo. Keep the back edge of the temporary brace 24” from the front edge of the front leg and make sure the armrests (K) are sitting level on them Measure and mark seat back support (F) 3 ¾” in from both ends and mark a line square to the straight back edge of (F). Clamp seat back support to the underside of armrests tight against the braces and the inside edge (square edge) of armrest lined up with the line at 3 ¾” on seat back support. Attach with 2” screws from underneath the seat back support.
Assemble center table framework (parts G and H) as shown in exploded view illustration. Make sure it fits between the center supports and then attach front slats (I). Attach front seat slat (M) to the top of front rail (D), keeping the front edge of slat even with front edge of front legs (C). Place (G/H/I) assembly between center supports and place table top slats (J) on top of that and the rear cross member, Keep the table front slats square to the top of front seat slat and table top slats level. Clamp in place and drive 3” screws through the center supports into table uprights (G).
Mark the center of the center table top slat (J) and line it up with the center of seat back support, keeping back edges flush. The front edge of center table slat (J) should overhang the front of table front slats by 1 ¾”. Attach two more table top slats (J) with ¼” spacers and keeping back edges flush. The sides of table top slats should overhang the side of center table by about ¼”.
After cutting the tapers on splats (L), lay two of them on a flat surface with their square edges (not the tapered ones) together and their bottoms flush. Place two more splats on either side of these with straight edges against tapered edges for a total of six splats. Square a line along the bottom to align with the bottoms of the middle two splats, and then measure and lay out the curved top (see splat detail illustration). Clamp a scrap piece of lumber under the rear cross member (E) and set the bottom of the splats on that scrap.
Align the ¼” space between the middle 2 splats with the center of the curved cut of both the rear cross member (E) and seat back support (F), and place ¼” spacers between the other four splats. Attach through the face of the splats and into both the rear cross member and seat back support (one 2” screw per splat into the rear cross member, two 2” screws per splat into the seat back support).
Begin placing seat slats (O), starting with one slat tight against the front seat slat (M) and keeping ¼” spacing between the rest of the slats. Place the rear seat slat last, making sure the curve of the rear slat fits the curve of the splats. Attach with 2” screws.
Place braces (P) where they will go, trace their outline against the underside of armrests and outside face of front legs and drill pilot holes within that outline. Attach with 3” screws.
Make sure all pieces line up and are flush, sanding and trimming when necessary. Then disassemble, sand all surfaces smooth, apply waterproofing finish according to manufacturer instructions and reassemble with glue and screws. Now you’re ready to place your piece of fine outdoor furniture and enjoy!