Estimated Cost: $$$$
Total: 5 – 6 hours (depending on glue set-up time)
This sturdy garden hose holder is both functional and flexible. You can stow up to 100 feet of hose on the main body, and extra nozzles, sprinkler heads or other accessories on the two handy shelves.
The flexibility comes from the ability to set the post on a metal holder (allowing you to store it inside during winter) or set the post in concrete. You may also forego the post altogether and mount the holder directly to your house, shed or fence...wherever is most handy for you.
The plan is easily customizable, as you can play with the design and go for a more rounded appearance, rather than the blend of 45- and 22 ½-degree cuts shown here. You could also drill a hole through the post and feed your hose through that, concealing the connection to your home's hose bib.
Cut inner supports (D) according to dimensions on cut list. Edge glue and clamp them in pairs and let the glue set fully.
On your miter saw, cut 45° chamfers on the top of your post (A) and cut two ¾" dadoes to a depth of ¾". See illustration for layout.
Cut the center (B) and side (C) panels, place them together to simulate two assemblies and lay out the angle cuts according to the illustration. Make the cuts by setting your miter saw to 22 ½° and 45° accordingly. Rout your chamfers or roundovers on all edges, inside and out.
Once the glue has set on your inner support assemblies, rip them to 9" wide. Trim an equal amount from both sides, leaving the glue seam in the center of the panels. This will make centering the supports on the center panels and post much easier. Mark the radius according to the dimensions on the illustration, cut and sand smooth.
Cut several ¼"-thick spacer blocks from scrap ¾" stock.
Drill pilot holes on inner support assemblies (D), noting locations on illustration. Attach one set of inner support and side panels with ¼" spacing to one center assembly with glue and 1 ¼" screws. Repeat for the other (B/C/D) assembly.
Attach one finished (B/C/D) assembly to post with glue and 3" screws, with top of (B) centered 4" from top of post.
Cut slats (E) and drill pilot holes 3/8" in from edge and centered along width.
Attach slats to back panel (D). Start with the bottom slats on both sides, then the top slat, and then fill in the rest of the slats with ¼" spacing. Drill pilot holes into edge of (D) to avoid splitting. This will leave an approximate ¼" space at the face of the slats (E) and a narrower space along the backside where they attach to part (D).
Using the same techniques and order (two bottom pieces, then top, then the rest), attach the slats to the front (B/C/D) assembly.
Cut the two shelves (F) to size from your scrap 1 x 8.
Glue and screw the shelves into their matching dadoes on the post. Drive screws at an angle from underneath the shelves so they are hidden.
Apply a waterproof finish and when dry, mount your post into a post holder, concrete or wherever/however you wish to mount it. Also consider purchasing a decorative post cap as an alternative to chamfering the top of the 4x4.