Estimated Cost: $$$$
Total: 4 Hours
A patio table adds sophistication and charm to an outdoor space. It anchors the seating elements and provides a surface for food, drinks, and plants.
This table has been designed with simplicity and elegance in mind. It features a strong and sleek base with cladding that waterfalls from the top surface down two sides. Using 4x4s as legs, 2x4s for structure, and 1x4s for cladding, this project takes shape in just a few steps.
When the leg assemblies are completed, the support structure is secured to create the table's skeleton. From there, it's just a matter of attaching the slats that waterfall over three faces.
After a light sanding and a waterproof finish is applied, you and your family will be set to enjoy some R&R with your new patio table.
Patio Table Plan
Hack The Plan. Add a Flower Garden.
Begin by marking where the 2 diagonal screws will be placed on Parts (A). Use a square to make two diagonal lines, then measure and mark 1 ¼" from the edges. Do this on both sides and on other Part (A)s.
Lay out two Part (A)s and two Part (B)s to form a square, facing the marks you made toward you. Secure with a clamp. Use the forstner bit to countersink the depth of the head of the lag screws.
Using the point left by the forstner bit, continue drilling to pre-drill for the lag screw length.
Secure Part (A) to Part (B) with two lag screws. Repeat this procedure until you have 2 completed leg assemblies.
Attaching the support frame is best done upside down as the work surface ensures the top of the table will be level. Lay out Parts (C) and the outside Parts (D) to fit within the leg assemblies.
Attach Part (D) to Part (A) using 2 ½" screws. One screw placed every 8 - 10" is recommended. Repeat this on the other leg assembly.
Place the two remaining Part (D)s so that they are 11 ½" from the Parts (D) you just installed. Attach to one end − Part (C) − using two 2 ½" screws.
Secure the other ends of Parts (D), ensuring square and hitting the same dimension as in Step 7.
Flip the assembly over so that the table is right-side up. Place two Part (E)s on the end of the table so they are adjacent. Butt up the top plank so that it is flush with the adjacent piece. Hold this position in place.
With this piece overhung the correct amount, attach to the table frame assembly using 2 ½" screws on each end. Repeat this on the opposite end of the table, using the same process.
After the two end pieces are secured, lay out eleven more Part (E)s evenly spaced, with their best face up. Take the average spacing distance to create a spacer jig. Rip a 2x4 to that thickness.
Next, starting at one end, check flush on each end of the slat and secure the slats to the support frame with 2 ½" screws.
As you approach the other end, check that the spacer jig will be correct for the remaining distance. Adjust the spacing on the last few boards if needed. Then, secure planks to the middle support beams.
Once the top surface is complete, use the spacer jig to set the spacing for the first waterfall edge cladding. Check for flush, then secure with one screw on each end.
Attach the bottom plank using the same technique.
Finally, evenly space the two boards that fit in between and attach. Repeat on the other end of the table to complete the cladding.
Ease any sharp edges using a radial sander or sanding block with medium grit. Apply preferred finish to the wood.